Sunday, September 25, 2016

LG TCON board – Troubleshooting - LC370W01-A5K1 (6870C-0024A)- LC370WX1 - LC320W01 (6870C-0060F)- LC370WX1-SLA1 (6870C-0088D) - LC370WX4-SLA1 (6870C-0158A)- LC420W02-B6 (6870C-0046B) - LED LCD television repair and service – Tech Troubleshooting– LED LCD television repair and service – Tech Troubleshooting

Category: LED LCD Television Repair and Service 

Contents of this article 

  • How to identify  faults
  • What to replace 
  • Working voltage of TCON

LG TCON board - LC370W01-A5K1 (6870C-0024A)- LC370WX1 - LC320W01 (6870C-0060F)- LC370WX1-SLA1 (6870C-0088D) - LC370WX4-SLA1 (6870C-0158A)- LC420W02-B6 (6870C-0046B)

A) T-con Board: LC370W01-A5K1 (6870C-0024A)
LCD Panel Model: 37 inches
Note: Vcc input= 12V1)
US1= TPS65161 is a power management IC.
If this IC failed, it will cause the TV No Display.
2) U1: This IC is a common fault for this T-con.
When it is fails it will cause the TV No Display.
3) UC1=KE5M3U2109.
If this IC failed it will cause the TV No Display or White Screen problem.
4) U3= BUF11702.
If this IC failed, it will cause the TV No Display or Abnormal Display Color problem.
B) T-con Board: LC370WX1 / LC320W01 (6870C-0060F)
LCD Panel Model: 37 inches
Note: Vcc input= 12V
1) U6 is a SDRAM memory IC.
If this IC failed, it will cause the TV No Display or Display Distortion problem.
2) U3 is an EEPROM IC.
If this IC failed, it will cause the TV No Display or White Screen problem.
3) UC1= TL22710D.
If this IC failed, it will cause the TV No Display, White Screen or Rainbow Display on the Screen.
4) U4= TPS65160 is a power management IC.
If this IC failed, it will cause the TV No Display.
C) T-con Board: LC370WX1-SLA1 (6870C-0088D)
LCD Panel Model: 37 inches
Note: Vcc input= 12V
1) U5 is a SDRAM memory IC.
If this IC failed, it will cause the TV No Display or Display Distortion Problem.
2) UL1= R8A01028FP.
If this IC failed, it will cause the TV No Display.
3) U3:
If this IC failed, it will cause the TV No Display.
4) U9= TPS65161 power management IC (DC-DC circuit IC).
If this IC failed, it will cause the TV No Display.
D) T-con Board: LC370WX4-SLA1 (6870C-0158A)
LCD Panel Model: 37 inches
Note: Vcc input= 12V
1) U11 is a SDRAM memory IC.
If this IC failed, it will cause the TV No Display or Display Distortion problem.
2) UL1= R8A01028AFP.
If this IC failed, it will cause the TV No Display or Display Distortion problem.
3) U3 is an EEPROM memory IC.
If this IC failed, it will cause the TV No Display or White Screen problem.
4) US1= TPS65161 is a power management IC.
If this IC failed, it will cause the TV No Display.
E) T-con Board: LC420W02-B6 (6870C-0046B)
LCD Panel Model: 42 inches
Note: Vcc input= 12V
1) U6= LM2716HT is a power management IC.
If this IC failed, it will cause the TV No Display.
2) U10 is a SDRAM memory IC.
If this IC failed, it will cause the TV No Display or Display Distortion problem.
3) UC1= R8A00011FT.
If this IC failed, it will cause the TV No Display, White Screen or Rainbow Display problem.
4) U9= EL5329IRZ.
If this IC failed, it will cause the TV No Display or Abnormal Display Color on the screen.

Tuesday, September 20, 2016

Apple iPad Wi-Fi – Disassembling procedure - How to replace the battery – Ipads and ipods repair and service

Category: Ipads and Ipods Repair and Service 

Contents of this article 

  • How to remove the case 
  • How to remove the logic board 
  • How to remove the battery 

Apple iPad Wi-Fi

BATTERY REPLACEMENT PROCEDURE 
If your display glass is cracked, keep further breakage contained and prevent bodily harm during your repair by taping the glass.
Lay overlapping strips of clear packing tape over the iPad's display until the whole face is covered.
This will keep glass shards contained and provide structural integrity when prying and lifting the display.
Do your best to follow the rest of the guide as described. However, once the glass is broken, it will likely continue to crack as you work, and you may need to use a metal prying tool to scoop the glass out.
Wear safety glasses to protect your eyes, and be careful not to damage the LCD screen.
Insert a metal spudger between the top edge of the display assembly and the rear panel assembly.
Rotate the spudger away from you to release the tabs along the top edge of the display.
Insert a second metal spudger between the top edge of the display assembly and the rear panel assembly to keep the tabs from snapping back into place.
With one spudger, work your way along the right edge of the iPad.
The front panel is held to the aluminum back by metal clips on the top, bottom, and left sides. The right side has plastic tabs which slide into recesses in the backplate.
Once the clips are released, lift the left side of the front panel up and slide it to the left to clear the tabs from the aluminum backplate.
Lift the display assembly away from the rear panel assembly by its bottom edge.
Do not attempt to remove the display at this time, as it is attached to the rear panel assembly.
In the following steps, you will disconnect the three cables attaching the display assembly to the logic board. The cables are for the following components:
Digitizer
Ambient Light Sensor
Display Data Cable
Use the edge of a plastic opening tool to flip up the retaining flaps holding the digitizer ribbon cables in their sockets on the logic board.
Be sure you are flipping up the retaining flap, not the socket itself.
Pull the digitizer ribbon cables straight out of their sockets.
Use a plastic opening tool to remove the ambient light sensor connector from its socket by gently prying upward.
Disconnect the display data cable from the main board by flipping up the metal retainer by its black plastic pull tab.
Pull the cable connector away from its socket.
Pull the connector parallel to the face of the logic board.
Remove the display assembly from the rear panel assembly.
Use the edge of a plastic opening tool to:
Pry the side button connector up off the logic board from underneath the wires.
Pry the speaker connector up off its socket on the logic board from beneath the speaker wires.
Carefully flip up the ZIF ribbon cable retaining flap on the socket near the headphone jack.
Be sure you are prying up on the retaining flap, not the socket itself.
Pull the headphone jack ribbon cable toward the left side of the iPad to disconnect it from its socket.
Remove the following screws
securing the logic board to the rear panel assembly.
Two 4.56 mm T5 Torx screws.
Two 3.76 mm T5 Torx screws.
Use the edge of a plastic opening tool to carefully pry the dock cable connector straight up off the logic board.
Lift the logic board out of the rear panel assembly.
Remove the two 2.84 mm T5 Torx screws securing the speaker assembly to the rear panel assembly.
Remove the single T5 Torx screw securing the middle of the dock cable to the rear panel assembly.
Remove the two 2.84 mm T5 Torx screws securing the dock connector cable to the rear case.
Using a plastic opening tool, carefully remove the plastic cover shielding the WiFi/Bluetooth board and dock connector cable. Carefully pry the Wi-Fi and Bluetooth antennas up from their respective sockets on the Wi-Fi/Bluetooth board.
Lift the dock connector cable out of the rear panel assembly.
De-route the speaker cable from the left side of the battery case.
De-route the Wi-Fi antenna through its channel in the speaker assembly.
Lift the speaker assembly and push it forward until the ports clear the bottom side of the lower case.
Remove the speaker assembly from the rear panel assembly.
The battery is held to the rear panel by an excessive amount of adhesive. Proceed with patience and caution.
Use the flat end of a spudger to gently pry the battery up from the the lower case.
Gently continue to enlarge the gap by wiggling the spudger and running it along the right side of the battery.
Continue to pry until the right side of the battery is free from the rear panel.
Insert the flat end of a spudger under the top edge of the battery and continue to separate the adhesive.
Continue doing so until the top of the battery is free from the rear panel.
When there is enough clearance, use your hands to peel the battery off any adhesive still securing it to the rear panel.
Remove the battery from the rear panel.

Monday, September 19, 2016

LG TCON board – Troubleshooting - LC300W01-B5 (6870C-0009C) - LC320W01-SLA1 (6870C-0142B) - LC320WX3 (6870C-0087A) - LC320WXN-SAA1 (6870C-0195A) - LED LCD television repair and service – Tech Troubleshooting– LED LCD television repair and service – Tech Troubleshooting

Category: LED LCD Television Repair and Service 

Contents of this article 

  • How to identify  faults
  • What to replace 
  • Working voltage of TCON

 

LG - LC300W01-B5 (6870C-0009C) - LC320W01-SLA1 (6870C-0142B) - LC320WX3 (6870C-0087A) - LC320WXN-SAA1 (6870C-0195A)

A) LC300W01-B5 (6870C-0009C)
LCD Panel : 30 inches
Note: Vcc input= 12V
1) U8 is a SDRAM memory IC.
If this IC failed, it will cause the TV No Display or Display Distortion.
2) UC1= TL22240D.
If this IC failed, it will cause the TV No Display, Display Distortion or Display Color Abnormal problem.
3) U3 & U4= BUF11702.
If this IC failed, it will cause the TV No Display.
4) This is a DC-DC PCB board.
If this small PCB board malfunction and causing no voltage output, it will cause the TV No Display problem.
B) LC320W01-SLA1 (6870C-0142B)
LCD Panel : 32 inches
Note: Vcc input= 12V
1) U10 is a SDRAM memory IC.
If this IC failed, it will cause the TV No Display or White Screen problem.
2) UC1= LGDP4801A.
If this IC failed, it will cause the TV No Display or Display Distortion problem.
3) RS1 is a Crystal.
If this component failure, it will cause the TV No Display.
4) U13= TPS65161 is a power management IC.
If this IC failed, it will cause the TV No Display
C) LC320WX3 (6870C-0087A)
LCD Panel : 32 inches
Note: Vcc input= 12V
1) U1 is an EEPROM memory IC.
If this IC failed, it will cause the TV No Display or White Screen problem.
2) UC1= KE5M3U2109.
If this IC failed, it will cause the TV No Display or White Screen problem.
3) U1= TPS65161 is a power management IC.
If this IC failed, it will cause the TV No Display.
4) Q3 (MOSFET).
If this component failure, it will cause the TV No Display.
D) LC320WXN-SAA1 (6870C-0195A)
LCD Panel : 32 inches
Note: Vcc input= 12V
1) U6:
If this IC failed, it will cause the TV No Display.
2) UC1= LGDP4803C.
If this IC failed, it will cause the TV No Display or Display Distortion problem.
3) US1= TPS65162 is a power management IC.
If this IC failed, it will cause the TV No Display.

Apple PowerBook G4 Aluminum 17 – How to replace the LCD screen – Laptop repair and service

Category: Laptop Repair and Service

Contents of this article

  • How to remove the case 
  • How to remove the inverter board 
  • How to remove the LCD screen 

Apple PowerBook G4 Aluminum 17

Remove the two 6.3 mm Phillips screws near the lower left and right corners of the display.
Removing these two screws may be difficult. It is helpful to open the display as much as possible for clearance to use a screwdriver. Also, a combination of #00 Phillips and small flathead screwdrivers along with a pair of tweezers may aid in removal.
The picture at left (rear panel already removed) shows the locations of the metal clips (shown in red) that snap on to the front display bezel. In the next few steps, you will use a small flathead screwdriver to release these clips from a ridge around the perimeter of the front display bezel.
When prying in the following steps, be sure not to damage the antenna cables that run around the perimeter of the front display bezel.
Insert the flat end of a spudger between the rear display bezel and the plastic rim attached to the front display bezel near the lower right corner of the display.
Do not try to insert the spudger between the front display bezel and its plastic surround.
While carefully prying the rear display bezel away from the display assembly, use a small flathead screwdriver to pry the small steel clip nearest the bottom right corner of the display away from the edge of the front display bezel.
Repeat the above procedure until you've released all the clips along the right side of the display.
Slightly lift the recently-freed corner of the rear display bezel to separate the clips with a spudger along the span of the clutch hinges.
Insert the flat end of a spudger between the rear display bezel and the plastic surround of the front display bezel near the lower left corner of the display.
Carefully pry the rear display bezel away from the front display bezel to expose the metal clips along the left side of the display.
Repeat the previous procedure to release the clips along the left side of the rear display bezel.
Slightly lift the lower edge of the rear display bezel and push it toward the top edge of the display, releasing the clips along the top edge of the rear display bezel.
Remove the rear display bezel and set it aside.
If necessary, remove the tape covering the display inverter.
Carefully lift the display inverter board from the side nearest the display data cable connector.
The display inverter is an extremely thin circuit board that is easily broken. Do not excessively bend or twist it during removal.
Use your fingernails to pull the ears on both sides of the inverter cable connector away from its socket on the inverter board.
Carefully lift the display inverter out of the clutch cover.
Don't try to remove the inverter just yet. It is still attached via the backlight cables.
Use your fingers to pull the backlight connector away from its socket on the inverter board.
Remove the display inverter from the display assembly.
If present, remove the piece of tape covering the display data cable.
Pull the display data cable straight away from its socket on the LCD.
Remove the four 3.2 mm Phillips screws securing the left side of the
LCD assembly to the front display bezel.
Remove the four 3.2 mm Phillips screws from the top portion of the LCD assembly.
Remove the four 3.2 mm Phillips screws along the right side of the display.
Carefully peel the protective translucent shield off the antenna board.
If you damage this during disassembly, be sure to tape over any tears or cracks to avoid unintended shorting.
Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the the antenna cables straight up off their sockets.
Remove the single 2.5 mm Phillips screw securing the display data cable ground loop to the front display bezel.
Remove the two 10.3 mm T8 Torx screws securing the left side of the clutch hinges to the front bezel.
Remove the two 10.3 mm T8 Torx screws securing the center of the clutch hinges to the front bezel.
Remove the two 10.3 mm T8 Torx screws securing the right side of the clutch hinges to the front display bezel.
Press the display release button to release the top edge of the display from the upper case.
Carefully wiggle and lift the display assembly straight up off its positioning pins on the clutch hinges.
In the following steps, you will use a heat gun to soften the adhesive securing the metal LCD frame to the front display bezel. Heat guns have the capability of producing an extremely hot jet of air, so be sure not to overheat the LCD panel.
With the heat gun set to low, start by heating the front display bezel near the upper left corner of the display panel.
Insert a plastic opening tool between the metal LCD frame and the front bezel.
Be sure you are prying between the metal LCD frame and the front bezel, not between the metal LCD frame and the LCD. It may be necessary to reheat this area until the adhesive yields enough to insert the edge of a tool.
Use the flat end of a metal spudger to gently pry up the adhesive securing the metal LCD frame to the front bezel, taking special care not to scratch the LCD panel.
While it is still inserted between the metal LCD frame and the front bezel, run the edge of your metal spudger along the top edge of the display to separate the adhesive securing the two pieces together, heating the area you are working on with a heat gun as necessary.
If the adhesive is hard to separate, use a heat gun to lightly heat the area you are working on.
Continue running the edge of your metal spudger between the LCD frame and the front bezel until the right, bottom, and left sides of the LCD are free.
Lift the LCD by its top edge only. Lifting the LCD by its lower edge will damage the backlight cables. Lift the LCD out of the front display bezel, using your metal spudger to release any adhesive if necessary.
With the LCD partially removed from the front bezel, carefully push the backlight connector through its tunnel in the front bezel.